This is the best summary I could come up with:
Three American climbers lay in the dark, sharing a custom-made sleeping bag on a portable ledge dangling from a massive cliff high in the Himalayas.
Rousseau, Cornell and Marvell gathered in Utah last week to share their story for the first time — the yearslong dream; the day-to-day struggle to ascend nearly two miles of mostly sheer rock and ice; the blackened, frostbitten fingertips that still needed to heal.
“Perhaps some day, a pair will climb a direct route on the north face in Alpine style,” Kofanov wrote in 2017, “but they’ll need to accept the likelihood that they’re buying themselves a one-way ticket.”
A hiking trek to base camp began at 5,000 feet of elevation, and for six days the climbers used porters and pack animals to climb out of swampy junglelike terrain.
Last year, the three scaled what Climbing magazine called “one of the most legendary lines in North American alpinism”: the Slovak Direct route on Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, in Alaska.
He usually spends winters near Bozeman, Mont., and summers around the rock-climbing hub of Yosemite National Park, working at a restaurant (owned by Anker, a mentor) to help fund his pursuits.
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