This seems to be an engineering sample CPU. Since these are pre-production, that could mean it’s basically a fully functional CPU. It could also have serious issues.

Found it!

You can use most of the connectors you would use for bigger wires. Wago lever nuts are rated for conductors as small as 0.14 mm².

If you want something to fit a din rail, standard terminal blocks (something like this) should also work.

Alt text:

ISO 8601 was published on 06/05/88 and most recently amended on 12/01/04.

From the IRF1404Z data sheet:

Calculated continuous current based on maximum allowable junction temperature. Bond wire current limit is 120A. Note that current limitations arising from heating of the device leads may occur with some lead mounting arrangements.

You need to design the PCB so that the heat from the legs can be properly dissipated, or they won’t live up to the rated current.

Also, traces on a PCB are much thinner than those legs. A trace with the same cross-sectional area would be impractically wide.

Unpopular opinion: The license makes sense and should have been enforced from the start.

The Benchy is a benchmarking tool, not just visually but there are also various features you can measure and check against the dimensions on the website. But that doesn’t work if the model you’re printing has been modified.

If it looks like a beachy, it should have been printed from the original model, so it’s always comparable. Preventing derivatives means you can be sure of that, even if it came on the included SD card with your printer. Otherwise, manufacturers could include a modified model that makes their printers look better than they are.

Relevant xkcd

If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.

eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it’s often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.

For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).

HiPER Calc Pro. A great scientific calculator I use constantly. (There is also a unpaid, ad-supported version, and the ads weren’t too intrusive the last time I tried it)

That’s probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you’re redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.

It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.

Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).

You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.

Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.

So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it’s off. But when it’s turned on, the battery charge will still drop.

From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.

My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.

I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.

Those adapters should definitely be fine for 24 V. Running the fans off 19 V will probably work, but they will run at slightly slower RPM (probably not a big problem for a filter).

You could use a voltage divider followed by a unity-gain amplifier to lower the output impedance, about like this: (I think that circuit could work, but I haven’t thought about it a lot, so it might not)

From looking at the LED bulb, I can tell you that it will not work very well in that flashlight.

The reflector of the flashlight is built so light coming from a very small source (like the filament of an incandescent bulb) is directed forward in a focused beam. With the led bulb, light is coming from 10 different spots, none of them being in the focus point of the reflector. The result will be a spread out beam that won’t be bright over longer distances.

The only type of LED bulb that could work is something like this car replacement bulb that keeps the light source to a relatively small spot. But I don’t think those are available in the size you need.