Would be interesting to see how it compares to a 3d printed M10 (or equivalent diameter) screw+nut

new technique enables inorganic composite glass printed at low temperatures

The ones you linked look like they were printing at high temp.

It’s not just you, there’s a financial incentive to write “reviews” which convince the reader to immediately buy the product, because of referral links. Even disregarding that the fact that it takes much more time and knowledge to write an actual unbiased review, you’ll most likely earn less money as you might dissuade readers from buying it, or even if you just make them think a bit more before going through with the purchase and they end up buying the printer somewhere else. I’ve started referring to these kind of pages as “fake reviews”, it plagues almost every product category and it has made it very unreliable to use the internet for buying advice.

Though I suppose it’s even worse for 3d printing, as some manufacturers have been known to pay youtubers for positive reviews and to lie about their competitor’s printers. And even the ones who don’t get cash in the hand still have some incentive to bias their reviews, as pointing out a printer’s flaws or recommending to buy something else would make them less likely to receive more free products to review in the future.

It’s literally the same (probably exaggerated) marketing material as Sovol themselves are trying to sell their Kickstarter project with, reformatted to look like an article. Not surprising that it has a couple of “Click Here to Buy Now: $999 $1299 ($300 off). Hurry, only 94/200 left!” referral links…

It might be true that Sovol has made some of the least bad budget printers recently, but anyone who has brand loyalty to any of the companies that make cheap 3d printers in China is bound to get disappointed sooner or later. Years ago Creality also made relatively good printers, using high quality parts and with acceptable quality control (e.g. OG Ender 3 era) and when they became market leaders they dropped the quality, and I would be surprised if Sovol didn’t do the same given the opportunity. I’d wait a couple of months after it’s released, and try to find some actual reviews.

3D Printing discord’s List of 3D printers even has a generic warning for Kickstarter printers:

More of a warning against kickstarter machines, up until now almost all of them huge failures, with delays in shipping and troubles in terms of QC. They just use the early backers as free quality check/beta testing for the most part. Remember you are not buying a product on kickstarter, you are paying for a possibility to get a product.

Might as well link to the original post on reddit, I don’t think Tom’s Hardware much value in their summary of it :)

I think the easiest way might be to put all the names in the box here and press “randomize”, if it comes to that.

You mean you have turned it off completely? I used it with the stock E3v2 extruder and BMG in Bowden mode, and later with BMG in direct drive mode, without any retraction related problems and I think it’s the same for the majority of 3d printer owners. Perhaps your printer had some other issue, which only showed up in combination with retraction?

Did you calibrate flow rate, retraction and z offset? Teaching Tech has a pretty thorough guide for all things calibration.

DRM filament spools has already been a thing, XYZprinting tried it but luckily it didn’t catch on and they went bankrupt a few years ago.

It says “imported” so probably made for a fraction of that in China.

Official repo says $114 per arm, but I didn’t check their math :) https://github.com/huggingface/lerobot

Was just thinking that if the goal of your video was to showcase the difference between the bed slinger and the corexy, then it would’ve made a stronger point if you took advantage of its full potential. The MK4 even looks faster in the video, but I suspect it could be the angle and that the bed moving making its motions more visible.

At that printing speed I doubt it makes any difference if the bed is moving or stationary :) Surely the Prusa XL could go much faster than this?

I often refer to this list maintained by some people I trust over at the 3D Printing discord. Unfortunately it seems like they don’t update it as often nowadays, but Qidi Q1 Pro has been around for long enough, and it is indeed one of their top picks.

Hehe, PETG and glass is a notorious combination, I only printed it a few times but I put covered the bed with blue painter’s tape just to be on the safe side. I’ve never really had any adhesion problems after starting to use Magigoo (which I also never wash off, I just add another layer every few months) but occasionally I get a bit impatient waiting for the bed to cool down.

Good recommendations, it’s almost the same list of upgrades that I’ve done to my E3v2. I went with a dual Z-screw upgrade which uses a sync belt instead of a second motor, since I use the stock board and didn’t want to run two steppers off the same driver (it should work IIRC, but it seemed annoying if they get out of sync since the printer can’t level them individually)

Also never use that damn scraper everyone I know who has including myself has a scar from it lol

I use it all the time if a model won’t come off easily. I grab the blade between two fingers, and then hammer the model from the side with the handle to knock it off the plate :)

You do NOT need an all metal hotend with this, use the stock red one it’s all you need

Technically the hotend becomes “all metal” with this, as the PTFE-tube does not go all the way down to the nozzle after the upgrade. Best illustration I could find

Intel NUC running Linux. Not the cheapest solution but can play anything and I have full control over it. At first I tried to find some kind of programmable remote but now we have a wireless keyboard with built-in touchpad.

Biggest downside is that the hardware quality is kind of questionable and the first two broke after 3 years + a few months, so we’re on our third now.

The most common reasons to buy Prusa that I have heard are their 24/7 support, warranty and wanting to support a European company. I’m not entirely up to date with Chinese manufacturers, so things could have changed, but at least in the past Fysetc, Blurolls and even Trianglelab seemed to be on par, or even exceeding, Prusa quality for printers and parts.

This is my wireguard docker setup:

version: "3.6"
services:
  wireguard:
    image: linuxserver/wireguard
    container_name: wireguard
    cap_add:
      - NET_ADMIN
      - SYS_MODULE
    environment:
      - PUID=116
      - PGID=122
      - TZ=Europe/Stockholm
      - ALLOWEDIPS=192.168.1.0/24
    volumes:
      - /data/torrent/wireguard/config:/config
      - /lib/modules:/lib/modules
    ports:
      - 192.168.1.111:8122:8122  # Deluge webui
      - 192.168.1.111:9127:9127  # jackett webui
      - 192.168.1.111:9666:9666  # prowlarr webui
      - 51820:51820/udp           # wireguard
      - 192.168.1.111:58426:58426  # Deluge RPC
    sysctls:
      - net.ipv4.conf.all.src_valid_mark=1
      - net.ipv6.conf.all.disable_ipv6=1
      - net.ipv6.conf.default.disable_ipv6=1
    restart: unless-stopped

Can reach the webuis from LAN, no other network configuration was necessary. 192.168.1.111 is the server’s LAN address. The other services are configured very similar to your qbittorrent, and don’t expose any ports. Can’t promise it’s 100% correct but it’s working for me.

Do you know how to check for bowden gap, and how to hot tighten the hotend/nozzle in order to prevent it?