I’ve seen so many 10" servers that look amazing from the front and very polished, but then having a rats nest of cables and a mess at the back.

After 62 iterations and many 3D prints, blood, sweat, profanity and tears. I my design and implementation is finally done. image
I used Hexagons where possible, because as you know, Hexagons are the bestagons

This is Before:
image

And the After:
image
The ducky adds 200MHz

The front of my mini-rack is actually still somewhat of a mess, I thought I’d focus on the back first.

I’ve published it in excruciating detail on my GitHub Leave a Star if you like what you see.

I self host a bunch of stuff on here to get away from Big-Tech, and because I find it fun. For a lot more details see https://erasmus.works/

It always bothered me the the fronts of racs are modular, but not the backs, this solves that
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hopefully this helps other clear up their rats nests.

  • Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world
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    3 hours ago

    I don’t understand the purpose of the exposed daisy chained cables. If it is not meant to be frequently unplugged, then why not wire an internal bus of 14 awg with Wago?

    • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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      3 hours ago

      I want it to be modular, so if I add another 2 servers, I can just add the server module in front, and its power module at the back.

  • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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    6 hours ago

    Preemptively responding to this, because I just know there’s going to be a comment about this.

    Yes Yes I know, GitHub, screw GitHub, Screw Microslop. I am trying to move away from Big Tech as much as possible, but it’s a marathon not a sprint, and every win should be celebrated.

    Perfection is the enemy of good.
    .

      • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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        6 hours ago

        Thanks yea I’ve used Codeberg before, but the main reason I use GitHub, is I try to create a good looking profile to point potential new Clients to when I’m looking for a new job, explaining Codeberg to them I feel is a step too much, and my income is Priority Nr1.

        I’ll fight the Open-Source, anti-Big-Tech fight elsewhere.

        • curbstickle@anarchist.nexusM
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          4 hours ago

          I totally get that

          Quick heads up - codeberg has an option to auto push changes to github, or the other way around with a github action (I prefer codeberg first)

          May want to give it a try, from a client perspective you can also use that to note that a distributed approach provides resiliency (and now it becomes a selling point too)

            • curbstickle@anarchist.nexusM
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              3 hours ago

              You can, but you can also run into some issues if you have git LFS, if one rejects for whatever reason, or sometimes just branch issues.

              Thats why I prefer to go to one repo and push out from there, but it is absolutely doable with git by itself.

          • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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            4 hours ago

            Nice thanks, that sounds good. I’d definitely only want to push to one place, if it then syncs to GitHub that’s fine.

            • curbstickle@anarchist.nexusM
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              4 hours ago

              I’m with you, I don’t like having to do the same thing more than once

              I set up an “about my repos” repo, which has a readme detailing the process, and explanations of what is where and what they are all for, which is what I point clients to. That also has a link to my personal forgejo to demo local git as well (which can also sync, btw) along with a note that it may be down for various reasons like updates or changes I’m making, which is why I also sync elsewhere.

              Depending on what services you’re selling to clients, it makes for a neat and simple addition to the list of skills to demo!

              And you’re kind of making me want to use a mini rack as an excuse to my wife for a 3d printer, but she already knows I’m not getting rid of my 12-15RU racks under my desks, so I’m going to have to wait until we find the property we want so I can build my workshop…

              • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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                3 hours ago

                Nice thanks!! You can get a 3D printer for fairly cheap to get started, the one I have is only 280 Euro now with 4 spools of filament

  • nomad@infosec.pub
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    7 hours ago

    Cool build. Please be aware there is a reason that Sockets are made from a plastic that does not melt nor burn. Everything near power connections is a potential fire hazard.

    • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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      Thanks yea I made sure to add this Safety section to my write-up on how to build this yourself, and I reference back to it a lot, so it’s painfully clear.

      I printed this in PETG which can take the heat easily, but ideally you use UL 94 V-0 which is also flame retardant.

      I did make sure everything is very well insulated, and pulled hard on every connection to make sure it’s held down properly.

      **Safety**  
      
      This part carries live mains. Mains wiring kills people who get it wrong, and a fault in a printed enclosure can start a fire.  
      
      Do not build it unless you are competent to wire mains and permitted to do so where you live. Sleeve or shroud all live terminals. PLA softens around 60 °C, PETG around 80 °C. Neither is flame retardant. Only a UL 94 V-0 filament is.  
      
      Wire the protective earth if anything you plug in needs it.  
      
      Build it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for injury, death, fire, or damage resulting from anything in this repository.  
      
  • bootstrap@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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    6 hours ago

    How is the power wired exactly? It looks like youve piggy backed off each cable before it, meaning the first cable is carrying the load from all after it which it usually isnt designed to do, should be fine if appropriately rated to the equipment.

    Looks mint!

    • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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      6 hours ago

      Yea each one runs through the previous module, so all the power goes through the first module.

      IEC 13/14 connectors are rated for 10A (2300 W at 230 V) which isn’t much lower than what you can run through your wall outlet. And in reality they can probably handle 15A(What your wall can handle) as they are commonly refereed to as “Kettle cords” and used by kettles which draw ~13 Amps.

      That’s very high, to give you an idea the 6 things I have plugged in draws ~240w, so I could chain up ~60 mini PC’s and only then would I be over the ~2300w limit.

      I do now mention this in the Safety section of my “How to build this” write up

      • bootstrap@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        6 hours ago

        Looks like youve done your research!

        Depending on the kettle model, most draw just under 10A these days. General household outlets (at least in australia) are only rated for 10A anyway.

        Ive used hundreds of kettle leads in my time and never seen one used for an actual kettle funnily enough

        • fozid@lem.radiantfig.fyi
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          5 hours ago

          uk can go to 13A peak load on the standard 230v socket, but drawing that for a prolonged period will nuke the socket. 10a prolonged is perfectly safe in the uk.

    • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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      6 hours ago

      Sure thing, there’s lots more details on my GitHub Write-Up including how to wire it up etc.

      image image

    • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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      7 hours ago

      Thanks!! Designing it was a BITCH, I knew almost nothing about CAD going into this, but hopefully my designs can help some others cleanup the power side of their racks.

      It was a lot of fun learning though, and now I’ve made proper use of my 3D printer.

      • happyborg@fosstodon.org
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        7 hours ago

        @Legion739 Did you 3D print yourself or send the designs away? What did you use software wise?

        Just curious, I don’t have time for this atm but love the idea, so maybe one day.

        • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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          6 hours ago

          I have the Anycubic Kobra X, and used Onshape to 3D model things, it’s fairly easy to do. I for some reason just decided to make something incredibly complicated lol.

          Lots of good YouTube tutorials out there to teach you everything you’d need to know.

        • Legion739@piefed.zipOP
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          6 hours ago

          I have the Anycubic Kobra X, you can buy it for 280 Euro including 4 roles of filament.

          It’s the first one I ever got, great price and quality for getting your feet wet with 3D printing. My boy-math figured that it will pay for itself eventually by printing things instead of buying.